 "That's not nearly enough time!" That was our AirBnB host's comment when we told her how long we would be in the region. At this point, hindsight and all that, I would say she was not stating her opinion, but a fact. And that was in Eze, at the very beginning of our 12-day visit to the Côte d'Azur. It is, of course, BEAUTIFUL! Again, please! But when I can walk longer, have more time, and the weather's a little warmer. I want to walk, shop, eat, drink, swim, hike, boat...any order will do! After Eze and Monaco, we continued along the coast, spending one full day each in Nice, St. Tropez, Ste. Maxime, and Cassis, and two days in Marseille. To be sure, we didn't change accommodations every day. So, there were extra evenings and mornings spent in a few spots. Marseille will have its own post because we stayed there the longest--four nights-- and our time there was comical. But you will note that there are some major towns missing. Next time, Cannes! We'll be back, Antibes! Menton, next time we'll do more than just wave as we drive by! What we did do: Promenade along Nice's Promenade des Anglais--spectacular Eat bouillabaisse--yum See the Calanques by boat--magnificent Watch a boule tournament in St. Tropez--fun and so picturesque Enjoy the cheerful, familial ambiance of Ste. Maxime--loved it Obviously, we were rushed. Only, given the location, who wants to (rush)? Moreover, I physically couldn't (rush). You could say we rushed in slo-mo. I must admit, due to the one city/town per day, the harbors, ports, and certain architectural features began to fade into one another. Joseph and I had to remind ourselves and each other that "This is the French Riviera. It's not an 'if you've seen one port, you've seen them all' destination." Even if they have a few things in common (like perfect beaches along the gorgeous Mediterranean Sea), each town has its own distinct personality. That's why I won't say I would do things differently given the same amount of time. It was worth the experience and knowledge. But would I do it again? No. I would spend more time in one place and absorb everything it has to offer. Still, we saw and experienced plenty, and with my sweetheart, it was all so much fun. 
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 One day in Monaco--one! It's amazing! Sophisticated and glamorous... Peaceful... And history... The old city, with the Place du Palais, some of those winding, medieval streets, and spectacular views, is on "Le Rocher" (The Rock). Beautiful, comfortable, welcoming. Thank you, Monaco! We hope to see you again!  Moustiers-Sainte-Marie. Medieval churches. A waterfall. The Alps. Love at first sight. Joseph is the beach baby. I love the mountains. The crisp, cool air was like an embrace upon our arrival. This gorgeous, Provençal village proved a sweet and restful respite in our early days of travel. It's a small village, easy to navigate, and it wasn't crowded, perhaps because of that cool mountain air I'm so fond of. All the shops were still open, but shopkeepers told us they would soon be closing for the season. We stayed at Le Relais, a lovely, family-run hotel. From our room, we had beautiful views from every window and the waterfall offered bedtime music. There's so very much to do in this region. Throughout our vacation, my walking improved day by day. But I was still very limited in the beginning. At the same time, there's a twelfth century church above the town--Chapelle Notre Dame de Beauvoir-- that I really wanted to visit. You might recall my observation about medieval villages and steps. Joseph was up for it --not for himself. Going up all those steps posed no problem for him. But we both knew my ascent would be painstakingly slow. It was worth it. Stations of the Cross are along the trail, giving us even more opportunity for prayers and gratitude. To be sure, the view alone prompts awe for God's creation. The chapel holds an air of both antiquity and sanctity. I didn't take photos inside because it's a small, intimate space and people were praying. More than a hike, something of a pilgrimage, and a beautiful way to start the day.   Happy November! We enjoyed a long and lovely vacation, but it's good to be settled at home once again. I will not heap vacation stories upon you, but I would share a few experiences/observations. For example, what do you think of mazes? How about steps, lots and lots of them? Or walking uphill? "Enjoy the labyrinth of winding medieval streets..." Well... If I had all day and was not still healing from multiple foot surgeries, maybe. It was so funny! I was enthralled, bemused, amused, chagrined--you name it! Our first stop, Eze, France, is on a hill, right up at the top. I knew that going in. But in the medieval towns we visited, not just Eze, those narrow, winding lanes lead to several other narrow, winding lanes, and those lead to others, and so on. When you finally reach the end of a particular labyrinth, you might find yourself facing a long series of steps. Or a wall. At one point, I think it was in Eze, a man proclaimed loudly in English, "No one knows where they're going! No one knows where they are!" I laugh every time I think of it. Challenging as those twisting labyrinths of cobblestone lanes may or may not be, they are unquestionably charming. At least, the villages we visited certainly are. We're talking Eze, Aix-en-Provence, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie. The combination of history, stunning natural surroundings, and relevance to the local and national economies ensures that they are well and beautifully preserved and maintained. The shopkeepers, restaurateurs, municipalities, and regions make the most of what they have--to everyone's benefit. Was I able to see everything I wanted to see? Absolutely not, but I saw enough to know I would go again. We'd need more time, and I would wish to be able to walk as much as my heart desires. We didn't take a lot of photos in the villages. It was early on in our trip and me simply getting from Point A to Point B was a stress. Overall, our experience was something of an assault to the senses. We saw a lot in a short space of time and those medieval villages very popular with tourists! And yet...beautiful.  |
A Little of This, a Little of ThatKeep me away from the wisdom that does not cry, the philosophy that does not laugh, and the greatness which does not bow before children. – Gibran Khalil Gibran Archives
November 2024
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